Changes

*Hemp was used in a variety of ways in Ryûkyû, as it was in Japan. One form of hemp textile used to make curtains or banners, and often presented as an emblematic Ryukyuan local product as a gift to foreign elites, was called Taiheifu, or Taihei cloth, after a place known as Taihei.<ref name=tomo150/>

*Hemp was used in a variety of ways in Ryûkyû, as it was in Japan. One form of hemp textile used to make curtains or banners, and often presented as an emblematic Ryukyuan local product as a gift to foreign elites, was called Taiheifu, or Taihei cloth, after a place known as Taihei.<ref name=tomo150/>

*A number of other types of textiles, such as felt or woolen cloth (J: ''rasha'') and silk crepe (J: ''chirimen''), were not produced in Ryûkyû but were imported from China and given as gifts (or "[[tribute]]" goods) to the [[Tokugawa shogunate]], [[Shimazu clan]], or other prominent figures.<ref name=tomo150/>

*A number of other types of textiles, such as felt or woolen cloth (J: ''rasha'') and silk crepe (J: ''chirimen''), were not produced in Ryûkyû but were imported from China and given as gifts (or "[[tribute]]" goods) to the [[Tokugawa shogunate]], [[Shimazu clan]], or other prominent figures.<ref name=tomo150/>

[[File:Hanagasa.jpg|right|thumb|320px|[[Hanagasa]] [[Okinawan dance|dancers]] in ''[[bingata]]'' robes]]

[[File:Hanagasa.jpg|right|thumb|320px|[[Hanagasa]] [[Okinawan dance|dancers]] in ''[[bingata]]'' robes]]

[[File:Kasuri-ryukaji.jpg|right|thumb|320px|[[Sanshin]] players in ''[[kasuri]]'' (ikat) garments]]

[[File:Kasuri-ryukaji.jpg|right|thumb|320px|[[Sanshin]] players in ''[[kasuri]]'' (ikat) garments]]

Textiles are traditionally dyed or decorated in a variety of ways as well. ''[[Bingata]]'', a form of resist dyeing in which a paste-like material is used with a stencil to control which areas would be dyed, is perhaps the most famous, and involves boldly colorful patterns, often against a boldly yellow or pink ground; ''bingata'' is strongly associated with the aristocracy. Meanwhile, Ryûkyû is also known for its ''hana-ui'' brocades, ''ro'' gauze weaving, and ''[[kasuri]]'' or ikat, a form of resist-dyeing in which the threads are dyed first, before being woven into the garment, creating geometric and other patterns in a two-tone (e.g. indigo and undyed white) palette.

Textiles are traditionally dyed or decorated in a variety of ways as well. ''[[Bingata]]'' (also known as ''katachiki''), a form of resist dyeing in which a paste-like material is used with a stencil to control which areas would be dyed, is perhaps the most famous, and involves boldly colorful patterns, often against a boldly yellow or pink ground; ''bingata'' is strongly associated with the aristocracy. Meanwhile, Ryûkyû is also known for its ''hana-ui'' brocades, ''ro'' gauze weaving, and ''[[kasuri]]'' or ikat, a form of resist-dyeing in which the threads are dyed first, before being woven into the garment, creating geometric and other patterns in a two-tone (e.g. indigo and undyed white) palette.

 

Another particular type of silk cloth associated with Ryûkyû is known as ''tabby'' (二彩 or タビー, ''tabii''). Originally a famous product of China's [[Guangdong province]], it was among the chief types of textiles transshipped through or exported by Ryûkyû.<ref>Kamiya Nobuyuki, ''Ryûkyû to Nihon, Chûgoku'' 琉球と日本・中国, Yamakawa Shuppansha (2008), 60.</ref>

Another particular type of silk cloth associated with Ryûkyû is known as ''tabby'' (二彩 or タビー, ''tabii''). Originally a famous product of China's [[Guangdong province]], it was among the chief types of textiles transshipped through or exported by Ryûkyû.<ref>Kamiya Nobuyuki, ''Ryûkyû to Nihon, Chûgoku'' 琉球と日本・中国, Yamakawa Shuppansha (2008), 60.</ref>

===Aristocratic Costume===

===Aristocratic Costume===

[[File:Ryukyu-official.jpg|right|thumb|250px|A man in the costume of a [[scholar-aristocracy of Ryukyu|scholar-aristocrat official]], with purple (First or Second Rank) ''[[hachimaki]]'']]

[[File:Ryukyu-official.jpg|right|thumb|250px|A man in the costume of a [[scholar-aristocracy of Ryukyu|scholar-aristocrat official]], with purple (First or Second Rank) ''[[hachimaki]]'']]

The colors and types of materials worn by aristocrats indicated their rank. This was seen especially in the colors of the ''[[hachimaki]]'' (court cap or turban) and court robes, and in the material (gold or silver) used to make hairpins. A summary of the significance of colors in the court costume of male officials is included in the description of [[Ryukyuan court ranks]].

The colors and types of materials worn by aristocrats indicated their rank. This was seen especially in the colors of the ''[[hachimaki]]'' (court cap or turban) and court robes, and in the material (gold or silver) used to make hairpins. A summary of the significance of colors in the court costume of male officials is included in the description of [[Ryukyuan court ranks]].

==Modern History==

==Modern History==

The production and consumption of Okinawan textiles saw a major shift after the Japanese government's ''[[kyukan onzon|kyûkan onzon]]'' (preserving old customs) policy was ended in [[1903]], along with the traditional poll tax, and assimilation policies began to be put into place. Whereas the poll tax had previously been paid in handmade textiles, commercial production and sale now began to dominate. Assimilationist rhetoric promoted the wearing of Japanese-style [[kimono]] as part of "modern" "Japanese" ideas of how to be a proper modern woman, and a good wife and mother. Even as synthetic dyes, machine-spun yarn, and new types of looms came to dominate, Okinawan textiles nevertheless became a luxury export good, purchased by Japanese on the mainland as an exotic and special good while Okinawans found it cheaper to buy Japanese material for their clothing; by the 1920s or '30s, some 80-90% of textiles produced in Okinawa prefecture were exported.

The production and consumption of Okinawan textiles saw a major shift after the Japanese government's ''[[kyukan onzon|kyûkan onzon]]'' (preserving old customs) policy was ended in [[1903]], along with the traditional poll tax, and assimilation policies began to be put into place. Whereas the poll tax had previously been paid in handmade textiles, commercial production and sale now began to dominate. Assimilationist rhetoric promoted the wearing of Japanese-style [[kimono]] as part of "modern" "Japanese" ideas of how to be a proper modern woman, and a good wife and mother. Even as synthetic dyes, machine-spun yarn, and new types of looms came to dominate, Okinawan textiles nevertheless became a luxury export good, purchased by Japanese on the mainland as an exotic and special good while Okinawans found it cheaper to buy Japanese material for their clothing; by the 1920s or '30s, some 80-90% of textiles produced in Okinawa prefecture were exported.<ref>Nitta Setsuko, "Oppression of and Admiration for Okinawan Textiles: Commercial Items and Art Objects," Okinawan Art in its Regional Context symposium, University of East Anglia, Norwich, 10 Oct 2019.</ref>

 

==References==

==References==