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*Hemp was used in a variety of ways in Ryûkyû, as it was in Japan. One form of hemp textile used to make curtains or banners, and often presented as an emblematic Ryukyuan local product as a gift to foreign elites, was called Taiheifu, or Taihei cloth, after a place known as Taihei.<ref name=tomo150/>
*Hemp was used in a variety of ways in Ryûkyû, as it was in Japan. One form of hemp textile used to make curtains or banners, and often presented as an emblematic Ryukyuan local product as a gift to foreign elites, was called Taiheifu, or Taihei cloth, after a place known as Taihei.<ref name=tomo150/>
*''[[Tonbyan]]'', made from the fibers of a variety of agave plant from [[Fujian province]], was used to make translucent white fabrics. Though knowledge about the production of this material was lost in World War II, recent research has revealed new insights.<ref>"The Lost Textile of Ryukyu," NHK World TV program, 7 Nov 2020.[https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/tv/worldprime/20201107/3004681/]</ref>
*A number of other types of textiles, such as felt or woolen cloth (J: ''rasha'') and silk crepe (J: ''chirimen''), were not produced in Ryûkyû but were imported from China and given as gifts (or "[[tribute]]" goods) to the [[Tokugawa shogunate]], [[Shimazu clan]], or other prominent figures.<ref name=tomo150/>
*A number of other types of textiles, such as felt or woolen cloth (J: ''rasha'') and silk crepe (J: ''chirimen''), were not produced in Ryûkyû but were imported from China and given as gifts (or "[[tribute]]" goods) to the [[Tokugawa shogunate]], [[Shimazu clan]], or other prominent figures.<ref name=tomo150/>
[[File:Hanagasa.jpg|right|thumb|320px|[[Hanagasa]] [[Okinawan dance|dancers]] in ''[[bingata]]'' robes]]
[[File:Hanagasa.jpg|right|thumb|320px|[[Hanagasa]] [[Okinawan dance|dancers]] in ''[[bingata]]'' robes]]
[[File:Kasuri-ryukaji.jpg|right|thumb|320px|[[Sanshin]] players in ''[[kasuri]]'' (ikat) garments]]
[[File:Kasuri-ryukaji.jpg|right|thumb|320px|[[Sanshin]] players in ''[[kasuri]]'' (ikat) garments]]
Textiles are traditionally dyed or decorated in a variety of ways as well. ''[[Bingata]]'', a form of resist dyeing in which a paste-like material is used with a stencil to control which areas would be dyed, is perhaps the most famous, and involves boldly colorful patterns, often against a boldly yellow or pink ground; ''bingata'' is strongly associated with the aristocracy. Meanwhile, Ryûkyû is also known for its ''hana-ui'' brocades, ''ro'' gauze weaving, and ''[[kasuri]]'' or ikat, a form of resist-dyeing in which the threads are dyed first, before being woven into the garment, creating geometric and other patterns in a two-tone (e.g. indigo and undyed white) palette.
Textiles are traditionally dyed or decorated in a variety of ways as well. ''[[Bingata]]'' (also known as ''katachiki''), a form of resist dyeing in which a paste-like material is used with a stencil to control which areas would be dyed, is perhaps the most famous, and involves boldly colorful patterns, often against a boldly yellow or pink ground; ''bingata'' is strongly associated with the aristocracy. Meanwhile, Ryûkyû is also known for its ''hana-ui'' brocades, ''ro'' gauze weaving, and ''[[kasuri]]'' or ikat, a form of resist-dyeing in which the threads are dyed first, before being woven into the garment, creating geometric and other patterns in a two-tone (e.g. indigo and undyed white) palette.
As in China, yellow was considered an aristocratic or royal color, and the wearing of yellow garments was limited to those of elite status; not only ''bingata'' but also other royal & aristocratic garments were often dyed yellow head to toe, using minerals such as orpiment (J: ''sekiô'')<ref>An arsenic sulfide mineral known in Japanese as ''sekiô'' 石黄, lit. "stone yellow."</ref> or plant materials such as [[turmeric]] or ''huáng bò''.<ref>黄檗. The bark of the Amur cork tree (''Phellodendron amurense'' or ''Phellodendron chinense'').</ref><ref>「ロイヤルカラーの黄色地衣裳」, gallery labels, Naha City Museum of History.[https://www.flickr.com/photos/toranosuke/49599011943/sizes/l/]</ref>
Another particular type of silk cloth associated with Ryûkyû is known as ''tabby'' (二彩 or タビー, ''tabii''). Originally a famous product of China's [[Guangdong province]], it was among the chief types of textiles transshipped through or exported by Ryûkyû.<ref>Kamiya Nobuyuki, ''Ryûkyû to Nihon, Chûgoku'' 琉球と日本・中国, Yamakawa Shuppansha (2008), 60.</ref>
Another particular type of silk cloth associated with Ryûkyû is known as ''tabby'' (二彩 or タビー, ''tabii''). Originally a famous product of China's [[Guangdong province]], it was among the chief types of textiles transshipped through or exported by Ryûkyû.<ref>Kamiya Nobuyuki, ''Ryûkyû to Nihon, Chûgoku'' 琉球と日本・中国, Yamakawa Shuppansha (2008), 60.</ref>
===Aristocratic Costume===
===Aristocratic Costume===
::''Main article: [[Ryukyuan court costume]]''
[[File:Ryukyu-official.jpg|right|thumb|250px|A man in the costume of a [[scholar-aristocracy of Ryukyu|scholar-aristocrat official]], with purple (First or Second Rank) ''[[hachimaki]]'']]
[[File:Ryukyu-official.jpg|right|thumb|250px|A man in the costume of a [[scholar-aristocracy of Ryukyu|scholar-aristocrat official]], with purple (First or Second Rank) ''[[hachimaki]]'']]
The colors and types of materials worn by aristocrats indicated their rank. This was seen especially in the colors of the ''[[hachimaki]]'' (court cap or turban) and court robes, and in the material (gold or silver) used to make hairpins. A summary of the significance of colors in the court costume of male officials is included in the description of [[Ryukyuan court ranks]].
The colors and types of materials worn by aristocrats indicated their rank. This was seen especially in the colors of the ''[[hachimaki]]'' (court cap or turban) and court robes, and in the material (gold or silver) used to make hairpins. A summary of the significance of colors in the court costume of male officials is included in the description of [[Ryukyuan court ranks]].
