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| Records from the time indicate that when the castle was rebuilt in [[1672]], following a [[1660]] fire, the roofs were tiled where they had been previously covered in wooden shingles, as a precautionary measure towards better fire-proofing. Archaeological excavations, however, have found both Korean and Japanese roof tiles dating to before this fire, indicating that at least some sections of the castle bore tiled roofs much earlier<ref name=shimpo>Okinawa Compact Encyclopedia.</ref>. The castle burned again and was rebuilt in [[1690]] and [[1709]]<ref>Kerr. p221.</ref>. | | Records from the time indicate that when the castle was rebuilt in [[1672]], following a [[1660]] fire, the roofs were tiled where they had been previously covered in wooden shingles, as a precautionary measure towards better fire-proofing. Archaeological excavations, however, have found both Korean and Japanese roof tiles dating to before this fire, indicating that at least some sections of the castle bore tiled roofs much earlier<ref name=shimpo>Okinawa Compact Encyclopedia.</ref>. The castle burned again and was rebuilt in [[1690]] and [[1709]]<ref>Kerr. p221.</ref>. |
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| + | The castle was occupied by [[Imperial Japanese Army|Imperial Japanese forces]] following the 1879 abolition of the kingdom and establishment of [[Okinawa prefecture]]. Some repairs were made in 1930, but the castle - which hid a major military command post below it by this time - was destroyed in 1945. The University of the Ryukyus had its main campus on the castle site for many years after the war, until finally the university moved and reconstruction began on the castle in 1992, on the 20th anniversary of the reversion of Okinawa to Japanese sovereignty following the US Occupation. |
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| ==Layout== | | ==Layout== |
| [[Image:Shuri walls.jpg|thumb|right|250px|One section of the winding stone walls of the ''gusuku''.]] | | [[Image:Shuri walls.jpg|thumb|right|250px|One section of the winding stone walls of the ''gusuku''.]] |
| The castle is situated on a hill, 130m above sea level at its highest point<ref name=Turnbull44>Turnbull. p44.</ref>, the main palace hall (Seiden) facing the west<ref>Kerr. p114.</ref>. The grounds cover roughly 46,000 square meters, extending roughly 400 meters from east to west, and 270 meters from north to south. The compound includes four gates in the outer wall, and eight gates in the inner complex<ref name=shimpo/>. | | The castle is situated on a hill, 130m above sea level at its highest point<ref name=Turnbull44>Turnbull. p44.</ref>, the main palace hall (Seiden) facing the west<ref>Kerr. p114.</ref>. The grounds cover roughly 46,000 square meters, extending roughly 400 meters from east to west, and 270 meters from north to south. The compound includes four gates in the outer wall, and eight gates in the inner complex<ref name=shimpo/>. |
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| + | A gate in the eastern side of the outer walls known as the Keiseimon (継世門) serves essentially as the rear gate to the compound, situated as it is on the opposite end of the compound from the main gates to the castle, the Shureimon and Kankaimon. A pair of stelae which stand at the Keiseimon are said to have been erected in 1544, and were intended to serve as spiritual or symbolic protection against ''[[wako|wakô]]''<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Keiseimon." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. Two other outer gates, called the Uekimon (右掖門) and Shukujunmon (淑順門), situated to the north side of the complex, provided access to an inner garden, called the ''ouchibara'' (御内原) in Okinawan. Today, tourists following the designated route pass through the Uekimon on their way out of the castle at the end of their visit<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Uekimon." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. |
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| Just beyond the castle walls could be found the Buddhist temple [[Engaku-ji (Okinawa)|Engaku-ji]] and the [[Ryutan|Ryûtan]] and [[Enkan pond]]s which were constructed for the leisure and recreation of visiting [[Chinese investiture envoys]]. | | Just beyond the castle walls could be found the Buddhist temple [[Engaku-ji (Okinawa)|Engaku-ji]] and the [[Ryutan|Ryûtan]] and [[Enkan pond]]s which were constructed for the leisure and recreation of visiting [[Chinese investiture envoys]]. |
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| ===Shureimon=== | | ===Shureimon=== |
− | [[Image:Shureimon.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Shureimon]] | + | [[Image:Shureimon.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Shureimon (守礼門)]] |
− | [[Image:Sonohyan utaki ishimon.jpg|right|thumb|250px|The stone gate to Sonohyan utaki]] | + | [[Image:Sonohyan utaki ishimon.jpg|right|thumb|250px|The stone gate to Sonohyan utaki (園比屋武御嶽石門)]] |
| The symbolic entrance to the castle proper was the [[Shureimon]], originally constructed around [[1555]]<ref name=Turnbull44/>, which remains today one of the most famous symbols of Okinawa, and specifically of the kingdom and the castle. | | The symbolic entrance to the castle proper was the [[Shureimon]], originally constructed around [[1555]]<ref name=Turnbull44/>, which remains today one of the most famous symbols of Okinawa, and specifically of the kingdom and the castle. |
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| ===Gates=== | | ===Gates=== |
− | [[Image:Kankaimon.jpg|right|thumb|Kankaimon|250px]] | + | [[Image:Kankaimon.jpg|right|thumb|Kankaimon (歓会門)|250px]] |
− | [[Image:Kyukeimon.jpg|right|thumb|Kyûkeimon|250px]] | + | [[Image:Kyukeimon.jpg|right|thumb|Kyûkeimon (久慶門)|250px]] |
| [[Image:Shuri Castle Stairs.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Stairs flanked by investiture tablets.]] | | [[Image:Shuri Castle Stairs.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Stairs flanked by investiture tablets.]] |
− | [[Image:Zuisenmon.jpg|right|thumb|Zuisenmon|250px]] | + | [[Image:Zuisenmon.jpg|right|thumb|Zuisenmon (瑞泉門)|250px]] |
− | [[Image:Rokokumon.jpg|right|thumb|Rokokumon|250px]] | + | [[Image:Rokokumon.jpg|right|thumb|Rôkokumon (漏刻門)|250px]] |
| Beyond the symbolic Shureimon, the main gate granting entry through the first set of walls of the compound is the Kankaimon, flanked by two stone ''[[shisa]]'' (lion dogs). Like most of the gates in the walls of Shuri Castle, the Kankaimon consists of a gap in the stone wall, with a wooden structure atop it, with a flared tiled roof. | | Beyond the symbolic Shureimon, the main gate granting entry through the first set of walls of the compound is the Kankaimon, flanked by two stone ''[[shisa]]'' (lion dogs). Like most of the gates in the walls of Shuri Castle, the Kankaimon consists of a gap in the stone wall, with a wooden structure atop it, with a flared tiled roof. |
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| ===Shicha-nu-Unâ=== | | ===Shicha-nu-Unâ=== |
− | [[Image:Kofukumon.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Kôfukumon]] | + | [[Image:Kofukumon.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Kôfukumon (広福門)]] |
− | [[Image:Suimui utaki.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Suimui utaki]] | + | [[Image:Suimui utaki.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Suimui utaki (首里森御嶽)]] |
− | [[Image:Hoshinmon.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Hôshinmon]] | + | [[Image:Hoshinmon.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Hôshinmon (奉神門)]] |
− | The Kôfukumon, a large, vermillion wooden structure which housed administrative offices<ref name=Turnbull44/>, leads finally into the ''shicha-nu-unâ'', an area equivalent to what would be called the second bailey in English or ''ni-no-maru'' in a Japanese castle. | + | The Kôfukumon, a large, vermillion wooden structure which housed administrative offices<ref name=Turnbull44/>, leads finally into the ''shicha-nu-unâ'' (下之御庭), an area equivalent to what would be called the second bailey in English or ''ni-no-maru'' in a Japanese castle. |
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| The ''shicha-nu-unâ'' contains the "Shuri forest ''[[utaki]]''", or [[Suimui utaki]], a sacred grove surrounded by its own low stone walls. | | The ''shicha-nu-unâ'' contains the "Shuri forest ''[[utaki]]''", or [[Suimui utaki]], a sacred grove surrounded by its own low stone walls. |
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| ===Unâ=== | | ===Unâ=== |
| [[Image:Shuri Una.jpg|right|thumb|250px|The ''unâ'' (central plaza), with the Nanden seen on the right of the Seiden.]] | | [[Image:Shuri Una.jpg|right|thumb|250px|The ''unâ'' (central plaza), with the Nanden seen on the right of the Seiden.]] |
− | The ''Unâ'' is a square, open plaza, bounded by the Hôshinmon on one side, the Seiden, the chief royal residence, facing it, and the Hokuden and Nanden on the remaining two sides. The plaza itself was the site of many important rituals and ceremonies, including New Year's ceremonies, and the formal investiture of each king, for which a symbolic model of the Chinese Imperial Court throne room would be constructed on the plaza. The plaza, and buildings within it, were conceived as a miniature of the Forbidden City (the Imperial Palace) in Beijing<ref name=Turnbull44/>. | + | The ''Unâ'' (御庭) is a square, open plaza, bounded by the Hôshinmon on one side, the Seiden, the chief royal residence, facing it, and the Hokuden and Nanden on the remaining two sides. The plaza itself was the site of many important rituals and ceremonies, including New Year's ceremonies, and the formal investiture of each king, for which a symbolic model of the Chinese Imperial Court throne room would be constructed on the plaza. Red and white tiles form ranks filling the plaza and marking where officials and aristocrats of various ranks would stand for these ceremonies; an aisle in the tile patterns leading directly across the plaza from the Hôshinmon to the Seiden was called the ''ukimichi'' (浮道, lit. "floating path") in Japanese, and was used only by the king, representatives of the Chinese Emperor, and others of similar rank<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Unâ." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. Overall, the plaza, and buildings within it, were conceived as a miniature of the Forbidden City (the Imperial Palace) in Beijing<ref name=Turnbull44/>. |
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| + | The two-story Nanden (南殿), or "South Hall," on one size of the plaza, is known as the ''Hae-no-udun'' (南風御殿) in Okinawan. It and the one-story Bandokoro (番所) attached to it are Japanese-style structures which housed Satsuma officials and Japanese-style ceremonies. Records indicate it was first built in the 1620s, though archaeological excavations have discovered earlier foundations. There do not appear to be any records of it ever having been painted and so, in accordance with one school of Japanese traditional architectural customs, it remains composed primarily of bare wood. The two buildings today include exhibition spaces, where artifacts related to the castle and the royal family are put on display<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Nanden / Bandokoro." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. |
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| + | The Hokuden (北殿), or "North Hall," facing it across the plaza, is a more Chinese-style structure, which housed visiting Chinese officials and Chinese-style ceremonies, and was the site of the chief administrative offices of the royal government. Commodore Perry was also entertained and banqueted here on two occasions when he forced his way into the castle. |
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− | The Nanden, or "South Hall," on one size of the plaza, is a Japanese-style structure which housed Satsuma officials; the Hokuden, or "North Hall," facing it across the plaza, is a more Chinese-style structure, which housed visiting Chinese officials. Both also housed some of the chief administrative offices of the royal government.
| + | A pair of buildings to the south of the Nanden, on the opposite side of that hall from the central plaza, served as administrative buildings and spaces for meeting with and entertaining [[Chinese investiture envoys]] and officials from Satsuma. The ''shoin'' or "study", and ''kusari-no-ma'', as they would have been called in Japanese, were also used by the royal princes as secondary studies, and for other everyday purposes<ref>"Shisetsu annai: shoin / kusari no ma." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. |
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| ====Seiden==== | | ====Seiden==== |
− | The chief royal residence, or Seiden, the building at the heart of Shuri castle, faces and overlooks the ''unâ''. The largest wooden building in the Ryûkyû Kingdom, it is three stories tall, and lavishly painted and otherwise decorated in vermillion and gold, with intricate carvings and other embellishments painted in bold colors. Its construction incorporates Chinese, Japanese, and native Okinawan architectural elements, including among many other features a Japanese ''[[karahafu]]'' gabled arch over the entrance, and Chinese-style two-tiered roof modeled upon that of the Chinese Imperial Palace. | + | The chief royal residence, or Seiden (正殿), the building at the heart of Shuri castle, faces and overlooks the ''unâ''. The largest wooden building in the Ryûkyû Kingdom, it is three stories tall, and lavishly painted and otherwise decorated in vermillion and gold, with intricate carvings and other embellishments painted in bold colors. Its construction incorporates Chinese, Japanese, and native Okinawan architectural elements, including among many other features a Japanese ''[[karahafu]]'' gabled arch over the entrance, and Chinese-style two-tiered roof modeled upon that of the Chinese Imperial Palace. |
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| + | Two stone dragon pillars flank the central stair of the Seiden; these, like just about everything on the grounds today, are reconstructions, though pieces of the pre-1945 pillars are now housed at the Okinawa Prefectural Museum. While most elements of the castle's design reflects Chinese, Korean, and Japanese influence, these dragon pillars resemble not those found anywhere in East Asia, but rather, a form typically seen in palaces and temples of Cambodia and Thailand<ref name=Kerr109/>, two of the many regions with which Ryûkyû traded heavily in the 14th-16th centuries. Dragons could also be found carved into and painted onto handrails, ceiling beams, and pillars throughout the structure<ref name=seiden>"Shisetsu annai: Seiden." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. |
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| + | The first floor, called the ''shicha-gui'' (下庫理) in Okinawan, was mainly used for government matters, and for more public rituals and ceremonies in which the king himself participated<ref name=seiden/> A series of sliding doors at the center of the front of the building opened directly onto the main audience chamber, or ''usasuka'' (御差床), above which (on the second floor) was the throne room. A throne sat here as well, where the king would sit to preside over government business, formal audiences and various rituals. Seats to his sides were reserved for the queen, their children, and royal grandchildren. The vermillion pillars to both sides of the throne were adorned with paintings of gold dragons and multi-colored clouds; hanging scroll paintings of ''[[kirin]]'' and [[phoenix]]es flanked the throne as well<ref name=seiden/>. |
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| + | A narrow staircase behind the throne led directly to the throne room above, allowing the king, queen, and other top-ranking royals and officials to make their appearance traveling directly from the throne room to the audience chamber. |
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| + | The second floor was called the ''ufugui'' (大庫理), and was the site of more private rituals and ceremonies performed only amongst the royalty and court ladies. It contained the throne room, but was largely a women's space. The throne room itself (also called ''usasuka'' like the audience chamber below) was decorated lavishly in gold and vermillion, as was the entire Seiden, inside and out. Two dragon pillars, painted gold, flank the throne, a Chinese-style chair elaborately carved and painted gold and vermillion as well. The dais upon which the throne sat resembled that of a Buddha statue, and was adorned with carvings of grape vine and squirrel designs. Some other elements of the decor featured gold inlay in black lacquered wood. Plaques given as gifts to the king by Chinese Emperors, bearing inscriptions of the Emperors' own calligraphy, adorn the throne room, where various more private rituals, as well as royal banquets, were held. Various objects would be brought out for rituals, including incense, candle-stands in the form of dragons, cedars, decorative golden flowers, and paintings of Confucius<ref name=seiden/>. |
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− | Two stone dragon pillars flank the central stair of the Seiden; these, like just about everything on the grounds today, are reconstructions, though pieces of the pre-1945 pillars are now housed at the Okinawa Prefectural Museum. While most elements of the castle's design reflects Chinese, Korean, and Japanese influence, these dragon pillars resemble not those found anywhere in East Asia, but rather, a form typically seen in palaces and temples of Cambodia and Thailand<ref name=Kerr109/>, two of the many regions with which Ryûkyû traded heavily in the 14th-16th centuries.
| + | For certain ceremonies, including New Year's celebrations and those occasions when the king formally dispatched a missive to the Chinese Emperor, the throne would be moved forward, and shutters on the front of the castle opened, so that the king would look down from under the ''karahafu'' gable upon the courtiers gathered in the ''unâ''<ref name=seiden/>. |
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− | A series of sliding doors at the center of the front of the building opened directly onto the main audience chamber, above which (on the second floor) was the throne room; the two were connected by a narrow staircase, allowing the king, queen, and other top-ranking royals and officials to make their appearance traveling directly from the throne room to the audience chamber. | + | A room in the southeast corner of the second floor was used for personal private devotions to the Ryukyuan deities, and for certain religious rituals overseen by the ''[[kikoe-ogimi|kikoe-ôgimi]]'' (high priestess)<ref name=seiden/>. |
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− | The throne room itself was decorated lavishly in gold and vermillion, as the entire Seiden was, inside and out. Two dragon pillars, painted gold, flank the throne, a Chinese-style chair elaborately carved and painted gold and vermillion as well. Plaques given as gifts to the king by Chinese Emperors, bearing inscriptions of the Emperors' own calligraphy, adorn the throne room. | + | The third floor was not intended for active use or habitation, but only for architectural purposes including ventilation<ref name=seiden/>. |
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| ==References== | | ==References== |
| *Inoue, Munekazu. ''[[Nihon no Meijo|Nihon no Meijô]]'' (日本の名城, "Famous Castles of Japan"). Yuzankaku Publishing, 1992. | | *Inoue, Munekazu. ''[[Nihon no Meijo|Nihon no Meijô]]'' (日本の名城, "Famous Castles of Japan"). Yuzankaku Publishing, 1992. |
| *Kerr, George. ''Okinawa: The History of an Island People''. Revised Edition. Tokyo: Tuttle Publishing, 2000. | | *Kerr, George. ''Okinawa: The History of an Island People''. Revised Edition. Tokyo: Tuttle Publishing, 2000. |
| + | *[http://oki-park.jp/shurijo-park/index.html ''Kokuei Okinawa Kinen Kôen'' (lit. "National Okinawa Memorial Park") Official Website]. 2004. Accessed 20 January 2010. |
| *"[http://ryukyushimpo.jp/news/storyid-41693-storytopic-121.html Shuri-jô]." ''Okinawa konpakuto jiten'' (沖縄コンパクト事典, "Okinawa Compact Encyclopedia"). Ryukyu Shimpo. 1 March 2003. Accessed 16 January 2010. | | *"[http://ryukyushimpo.jp/news/storyid-41693-storytopic-121.html Shuri-jô]." ''Okinawa konpakuto jiten'' (沖縄コンパクト事典, "Okinawa Compact Encyclopedia"). Ryukyu Shimpo. 1 March 2003. Accessed 16 January 2010. |
| *Turnbull, Stephen. ''The Samurai Capture a King: Okinawa 1609''. Oxford: Osprey Press, 2009. | | *Turnbull, Stephen. ''The Samurai Capture a King: Okinawa 1609''. Oxford: Osprey Press, 2009. |