Changes

Though generally worn by both courtiers and samurai as everyday wear, by the [[Muromachi period]], it had become formalwear for samurai, and had come to be worn in more lavish materials and patterns within the Kyoto court. Tall ''tate [[eboshi]]'' were typically worn with the ''hitatare'' up into the Kamakura period; from the Muromachi period onward, it became more typical to wear folded, or flatter, ''ori eboshi'' with the ''hitatare''.

Though generally worn by both courtiers and samurai as everyday wear, by the [[Muromachi period]], it had become formalwear for samurai, and had come to be worn in more lavish materials and patterns within the Kyoto court. Tall ''tate [[eboshi]]'' were typically worn with the ''hitatare'' up into the Kamakura period; from the Muromachi period onward, it became more typical to wear folded, or flatter, ''ori eboshi'' with the ''hitatare''.

In the 1710s, shogunal advisor [[Arai Hakuseki]] worked to make the shogun's court more kingly, or aristocratic, and had the practice of wearing ''hitatare'' replaced by the wearing of ''[[noshi|nôshi]]'' for a variety of particular occasions. The ''nôshi'' was worn by courtiers and emperors when the ''hitatare'' was still commoner garb, and so even as late as the [[Edo period]], it still bore a stronger connotation of aristocracy or royalty.<ref>Kate Wildman Nakai, ''Shogunal Politics: Arai Hakuseki and the Premises of Tokugawa Rule'', Harvard East Asian Monographs (1988), 191.</ref>

In the 1710s, shogunal advisor [[Arai Hakuseki]] worked to make the shogun's court more kingly, or aristocratic, and had the practice of wearing ''hitatare'' replaced by the wearing of ''[[court costume|nôshi]]'' for a variety of particular occasions. The ''nôshi'' was worn by courtiers and emperors when the ''hitatare'' was still commoner garb, and so even as late as the [[Edo period]], it still bore a stronger connotation of aristocracy or royalty.<ref>Kate Wildman Nakai, ''Shogunal Politics: Arai Hakuseki and the Premises of Tokugawa Rule'', Harvard East Asian Monographs (1988), 191.</ref>

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