Changes

===Destruction and Restoration===

===Destruction and Restoration===

Extensive repairs were made to Shuri castle in 1928-1933, while retaining the form it held since 1712.<ref>Interview with Matayoshi, 107.</ref> These were overseen by [[Ministry of Education]] engineer [[Sakatani Ryonoshin|Sakatani Ryônoshin]]<!--阪谷良之進-->, with the construction work itself led by ''[[miya daiku]]'' (shrine/temple carpenter) [[Yanagita Kikuzo|Yanagita Kikuzô]].<!--柳田菊造--> An underground headquarters for the 32nd Army was constructed below the castle in 1944, however, leading to its destruction in the 1945 Battle of Okinawa. The University of the Ryukyus was then established on the former site of the castle and remained there for many years, until, after decades of popular movements and pushes to see the castle rebuilt, the university moved and reconstruction finally began on the castle in 1992, on the 20th anniversary of the reversion of Okinawa to Japanese sovereignty following the US Occupation.  

Extensive repairs were made to Shuri castle in 1928-1933, while retaining the form it held since 1712.<ref>Interview with Matayoshi, 107.</ref> These were overseen by [[Ministry of Education]] engineer [[Sakatani Ryonoshin|Sakatani Ryônoshin]]<!--阪谷良之進-->, with the construction work itself led by ''[[miya daiku]]'' (shrine/temple carpenter) [[Yanagita Kikuzo|Yanagita Kikuzô]].<!--柳田菊造--> An underground headquarters for the 32nd Army was constructed below the castle in 1944, however, leading to its destruction in the 1945 Battle of Okinawa.<ref>Construction began in March 1944, but the underground headquarters was actually only used for a brief period in 1945. The 32nd Army began using it as their primary headquarters in March 1945. Some 1,000 officers, soldiers, student conscripts (the Iron & Blood Corps), and civilians came to live together in the underground headquarters at that time. However, only two months later, on May 22, 1945, the military command decided to withdraw to Mabuni in the south of the island, as a stalling tactic to attempt to delay any potential Allied invasion of mainland Japan. Much of the rooms and tunnels were intentionally caved-in as the army abandoned the headquarters on May 27. Allied forces gained control of Shuri on May 31. Explanatory plaques, Shurijô Castle Park.[https://www.flickr.com/photos/toranosuke/49599089013/sizes/k/]</ref> The University of the Ryukyus was then established on the former site of the castle and remained there for many years, until, after decades of popular movements and pushes to see the castle rebuilt, the university moved and reconstruction finally began on the castle in 1992, on the 20th anniversary of the reversion of Okinawa to Japanese sovereignty following the US Occupation.  

This was a long process, however. The Shureimon gate was the first portion of the castle to be restored, in 1958. Ten years later, in 1968-69, the main gate at the nearby [[Engaku-ji]] temple, along with the Benten-dô (Benten Hall) and Tennyo-bashi (Tennyo Bridge) at the [[Ryutan|Ryûtan Pond]] were restored. The Ryukyu Government<ref>The civilian government of Okinawan elected representatives governing alongside the US military government during the Occupation.</ref> decided upon a plan in 1970 to restore the castle and various cultural assets (artifacts) lost in the war. The same year, the national government of Japan reached a cabinet decision regarding the reversion of Okinawa to Japanese authority (i.e. the end of the Occupation), and made clear its support for the restoration of the castle and cultural assets. The following year, funds were explicitly set aside for the restoration project within the budget of the Ministry of State for Okinawa and the [[Northern Territories]]. In 1972, the US Occupation ended and Japanese administration of Okinawa prefecture was resumed; the site was then named a "Historical Site" (''shiseki'') under the [[Law for the Protection of Cultural Properties]],<ref name=okahashi2/> and an official Okinawa Promotion and Development Plan that year explicitly included discussion of a plan to restore the castle and associated cultural assets. Work then began on restoring other portions of the castle compound and surrounding areas, with the Kankaimon being restored over a two-year process from 1972-74 and the royal mausoleum at [[Tamaudun]] in 1973-76. An "Association for Realizing the Restoration of Shuri Castle" (''Shurijô fukugen kisei kai'') was established in 1973, and work began on the castle's Kyûkeimon gate in 1976. The Second Okinawa Promotion and Development Plan, put out in 1982, explicitly discussed matters including determining the extent of the grounds that should be made a public park, and the areas that should be made areas for historical and cultural preservation.<ref name=shimpo1992>"Shurijô fukugen no keii" 首里城復元の経緯, ''Ryukyu Shimpo'', 1 Nov 1992.</ref>

This was a long process, however. The Shureimon gate was the first portion of the castle to be restored, in 1958. Ten years later, in 1968-69, the main gate at the nearby [[Engaku-ji]] temple, along with the Benten-dô (Benten Hall) and Tennyo-bashi (Tennyo Bridge) at the [[Ryutan|Ryûtan Pond]] were restored. The Ryukyu Government<ref>The civilian government of Okinawan elected representatives governing alongside the US military government during the Occupation.</ref> decided upon a plan in 1970 to restore the castle and various cultural assets (artifacts) lost in the war. The same year, the national government of Japan reached a cabinet decision regarding the reversion of Okinawa to Japanese authority (i.e. the end of the Occupation), and made clear its support for the restoration of the castle and cultural assets. The following year, funds were explicitly set aside for the restoration project within the budget of the Ministry of State for Okinawa and the [[Northern Territories]]. In 1972, the US Occupation ended and Japanese administration of Okinawa prefecture was resumed; the site was then named a "Historical Site" (''shiseki'') under the [[Law for the Protection of Cultural Properties]],<ref name=okahashi2/> and an official Okinawa Promotion and Development Plan that year explicitly included discussion of a plan to restore the castle and associated cultural assets. Work then began on restoring other portions of the castle compound and surrounding areas, with the Kankaimon being restored over a two-year process from 1972-74 and the royal mausoleum at [[Tamaudun]] in 1973-76. An "Association for Realizing the Restoration of Shuri Castle" (''Shurijô fukugen kisei kai'') was established in 1973, and work began on the castle's Kyûkeimon gate in 1976. The Second Okinawa Promotion and Development Plan, put out in 1982, explicitly discussed matters including determining the extent of the grounds that should be made a public park, and the areas that should be made areas for historical and cultural preservation.<ref name=shimpo1992>"Shurijô fukugen no keii" 首里城復元の経緯, ''Ryukyu Shimpo'', 1 Nov 1992.</ref>

While responsibility for the management and maintenance of the castle grounds and structures was divided between the national and prefectural governments, the Churashima Foundation (which also oversees Okinawa Ocean Expo Park and plays a prominent role in the operation of the Okinawa Prefectural Museum) oversees the reproduction and maintenance of individual objects such as statuary, furniture, and wall decor, as well as the castle's collections of surviving historical artworks and artifacts.<ref>Uezu Yasuyuki, "The Path towards the Restoration of Shurijo Castle," n.d., 7.</ref> The grounds beneath and around the reconstructed castle were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, and the reconstructed castle became the site of regular reenactments of royal court ceremonies and numerous other cultural performances, as well as regularly-cycling temporary exhibits of artworks and other treasures related to the kingdom. The castle quickly became the most-visited tourist site on Okinawa Island, boasting some three million visitors a year.<ref>"Hôdô shashin shû Shurijô" 報道写真集・首里城, Okinawa Times (2019), n.p.</ref> Over the following decades, additional areas were restored and opened to the public. The Yuinchi, Kugani udun, Kinshû tsumesho, and Okushoin (described below) were restored and opened in 2014, and in February 2019, areas of the Agari no Azana (eastern lookout) and Ouchibaru (women's quarters) not previously open were made accessible to the public.<ref>"Hôdô shashin shû Shurijô," 34.</ref>

While responsibility for the management and maintenance of the castle grounds and structures was divided between the national and prefectural governments, the Churashima Foundation (which also oversees Okinawa Ocean Expo Park and plays a prominent role in the operation of the Okinawa Prefectural Museum) oversees the reproduction and maintenance of individual objects such as statuary, furniture, and wall decor, as well as the castle's collections of surviving historical artworks and artifacts.<ref>Uezu Yasuyuki, "The Path towards the Restoration of Shurijo Castle," n.d., 7.</ref> The grounds beneath and around the reconstructed castle were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, and the reconstructed castle became the site of regular reenactments of royal court ceremonies and numerous other cultural performances, as well as regularly-cycling temporary exhibits of artworks and other treasures related to the kingdom. The castle quickly became the most-visited tourist site on Okinawa Island, boasting some three million visitors a year.<ref>"Hôdô shashin shû Shurijô" 報道写真集・首里城, Okinawa Times (2019), n.p.</ref> Over the following decades, additional areas were restored and opened to the public. The Yuinchi, Kugani udun, Kinshû tsumesho, and Okushoin (described below) were restored and opened in 2014, and in February 2019, areas of the Agari no Azana (eastern lookout) and Ouchibaru (women's quarters) not previously open were made accessible to the public.<ref>"Hôdô shashin shû Shurijô," 34.</ref>

The Seiden caught fire early in the morning on Oct 31, 2019; the fire soon spread, and by the time it was put out in the early afternoon that same day, the Seiden and Hokuden had been completely destroyed, with the Nanden and four other structures (for a total of seven structures) suffering severe damage. Some number of historical treasures were lost in the fire. There are plans to rebuild the lost structures, however it is unclear how long this will take, or the extent of the losses of irreplaceable cultural artifacts and the like.<ref name=nhkfire>"[https://www3.nhk.or.jp/news/html/20191031/amp/k10012157881000.html 首里城で火災「正殿」などが全焼 那覇]," NHK News Web, 31 Oct 2019.</ref>

The Seiden caught fire early in the morning on Oct 31, 2019; the fire soon spread, and by the time it was put out in the early afternoon that same day, the Seiden and Hokuden had been completely destroyed, with the Nanden and four other structures (for a total of seven structures) suffering severe damage. Out of the roughly 1500 historical treasures and notable reproductions held at the castle, roughly 421 were lost in the fire. Those lost included several (original, historical) paintings and documents and numerous lacquerware and pottery objects that had been on display in the temporary exhibit galleries at the time of the fire, a number of replicas produced since the 1980s, including the royal thrones, royal crown, royal seals, and lacquered Qing imperial calligraphy plaques displayed in the throne room, and models of the castle displayed in the Main Hall and gift shop.<ref>"[https://www.okinawatimes.co.jp/articles/-/507607 首里城火災、焼失した所蔵品393点のリスト初公表　被害の半数超は漆器]," ''Okinawa Times'', 8 Dec 2019.</ref> As of 2020, reconstruction is projected to be completed in 2026.<ref>"[https://www.okinawatimes.co.jp/articles/-/552187 首里城正殿 2026年までに完成　政府が工程表決定　22年中に本格着工]," ''Okinawa Times'', 27 March 2020.</ref>

==Layout==

==Layout==

The ''Unâ'' (御庭) is a square, open plaza, bounded by the Hôshinmon on one side, the Seiden, the chief royal residence, facing it, and the Hokuden and Nanden on the remaining two sides. The plaza itself was the site of many important rituals and ceremonies, including New Year's ceremonies, and the formal investiture of each king, for which a symbolic model of the Chinese Imperial Court throne room would be constructed on the plaza. Red and white tiles form ranks (''sen'', 磚) filling the plaza and marking where officials and aristocrats of various ranks would stand for these ceremonies; a raised path cutting through the plaza and leading directly across the plaza from the Hôshinmon to the Seiden was called the ''ukimichi'' (浮道, lit. "floating path") in Japanese, and was used only by the king, representatives of the Chinese Emperor, and others of similar rank<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Unâ." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. Originally raised some 15 cm above the plaza (hence the name "floating path"), the reconstructed ''ukimichi'' today is raised by only five cm.<ref>''Ukimichi no nazo'' 浮道のなぞ, ''Fee nu kaji'' 南ぬ風 36 (2015), 9.</ref> Overall, the plaza, and buildings within it, were conceived as a miniature of the Forbidden City (the Imperial Palace) in Beijing<ref name=Turnbull44/>.

The ''Unâ'' (御庭) is a square, open plaza, bounded by the Hôshinmon on one side, the Seiden, the chief royal residence, facing it, and the Hokuden and Nanden on the remaining two sides. The plaza itself was the site of many important rituals and ceremonies, including New Year's ceremonies, and the formal investiture of each king, for which a symbolic model of the Chinese Imperial Court throne room would be constructed on the plaza. Red and white tiles form ranks (''sen'', 磚) filling the plaza and marking where officials and aristocrats of various ranks would stand for these ceremonies; a raised path cutting through the plaza and leading directly across the plaza from the Hôshinmon to the Seiden was called the ''ukimichi'' (浮道, lit. "floating path") in Japanese, and was used only by the king, representatives of the Chinese Emperor, and others of similar rank<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Unâ." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. Originally raised some 15 cm above the plaza (hence the name "floating path"), the reconstructed ''ukimichi'' today is raised by only five cm.<ref>''Ukimichi no nazo'' 浮道のなぞ, ''Fee nu kaji'' 南ぬ風 36 (2015), 9.</ref> Overall, the plaza, and buildings within it, were conceived as a miniature of the Forbidden City (the Imperial Palace) in Beijing<ref name=Turnbull44/>.

The two-story Nanden (南殿), or "South Hall," on one size of the plaza, is known as the ''Fee-nu-udun'' (南風御殿) in Okinawan. It is a Japanese-style structure which housed Satsuma officials and Japanese-style ceremonies. The one-story Bandokoro (番所) attached to it was used by Ryukyuan officials departing for the day to pass off paperwork or duties to those arriving. Records indicate that the Nanden was first built c. [[1628]], though archaeological excavations have discovered earlier foundations. There do not appear to be any records of it ever having been painted and so, in accordance with one school of Japanese traditional architectural customs, it remains composed primarily of bare wood. The two buildings today include exhibition spaces, where artifacts related to the castle and the royal family are put on display<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Nanden / Bandokoro." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. Attached to the eastern end of the Nanden was a space known as the Kinjûtsumesho (近習詰所), where about twenty officials and scribed attached to the king were based; a number of them typically accompanied the king as he moved through the castle on daily business.<ref name=plaques/> Beyond this space was a small inner writing studio, or ''okushoin'' (奥書院). Three by three and a half bays (''ma'') in size, it was used by the king as a place to take a break from his duties, and also contained a space where the ''okushoin'' magistrate (''okushoin [[bujo|bujô]]'') worked. The ''okushoin'' faced a garden to the south, and the Kawarume utaki (苅銘御嶽) to the east.<ref name=plaques/>

The two-story Nanden (南殿), or "South Hall," on one size of the plaza, is known as the ''Fee-nu-udun'' (南風御殿) in Okinawan. A Japanese-style structure, it was regularly used for receiving Satsuma officials and for other Japanese-style ceremonies. The one-story Bandokoro (番所) attached to it was used by Ryukyuan officials departing for the day to pass off paperwork or duties to those arriving. Records indicate that the Nanden was first built c. [[1628]], though archaeological excavations have discovered earlier foundations. There do not appear to be any records of it ever having been painted and so, in accordance with one school of Japanese traditional architectural customs, it remains composed primarily of bare wood. The two buildings today include exhibition spaces, where artifacts related to the castle and the royal family are put on display<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Nanden / Bandokoro." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>. Attached to the eastern end of the Nanden was a space known as the Kinjûtsumesho (近習詰所), where about twenty officials and scribed attached to the king were based; a number of them typically accompanied the king as he moved through the castle on daily business.<ref name=plaques/> Beyond this space was a small inner writing studio, or ''okushoin'' (奥書院). Three by three and a half bays (''ma'') in size, it was used by the king as a place to take a break from his duties, and also contained a space where the ''okushoin'' magistrate (''okushoin [[bujo|bujô]]'') worked. The ''okushoin'' faced a garden to the south, and the Kawarume utaki (苅銘御嶽) to the east.<ref name=plaques/>

The Hokuden (北殿), or "North Hall," also known as the ''giseiden'' (議政殿), faces the Nanden across the plaza, and is known as the ''Nishi-no-udun'' (北之御殿) in Okinawan. Built around 1506-1521, it is a structure more Chinese in style, which housed visiting Chinese officials and Chinese-style ceremonies and, as the site of the chief administrative offices of the royal government, was on an average day the busiest and most active building in the compound. Commodore Perry was also entertained and banqueted here on two occasions when he forced his way into the castle. Like the Nanden, the Hokuden today contains exhibition space devoted to material related to the castle, the royal family, and the kingdom's relationship with China<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Hokuden." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>.

The Hokuden (北殿), or "North Hall," also known as the ''giseiden'' (議政殿), faces the Nanden across the plaza, and is known as the ''Nishi-no-udun'' (北之御殿) in Okinawan. Built around 1506-1521, it is a structure more Chinese in style, which housed visiting Chinese officials and Chinese-style ceremonies and, as the site of the chief administrative offices of the royal government, was on an average day the busiest and most active building in the compound. Commodore Perry was also entertained and banqueted here on two occasions when he forced his way into the castle. Like the Nanden, the Hokuden today contains exhibition space devoted to material related to the castle, the royal family, and the kingdom's relationship with China<ref>"Shisetsu annai: Hokuden." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.</ref>.

A pair of buildings to the south of the Nanden, on the opposite side of that hall from the central plaza, served as administrative buildings and spaces for meeting with and entertaining Chinese investiture envoys and officials from Satsuma. The ''shoin'' or "study", and ''kusari-no-ma'', as they would have been called in Japanese, were also used by the kings as their chief study or office, and secondarily by royal princes.<ref>"Shisetsu annai: shoin / kusari no ma." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.; plaques on-site in Shuri castle.</ref>. The room was also used for entertaining Chinese envoys. The ''shoin'' appears in the [[1713]] ''[[Ryukyu-koku yuraiki|Ryûkyû-koku yuraiki]]'', but it is unclear how much earlier before that it might have been built. Connected to the Nanden by internal corridors, it contained the ''sasu-no-ma'', the office of the royal scribe or clerk (''[[yuhitsu|yûhitsu]]''<!--右筆-->), who was responsible for producing formal court documents, including those sent to the Emperor of China or the Japanese shogun. The ''sasu-no-ma'' was also used by the Crown Prince as a tearoom for receiving guests. The ''shoin'', which has today been reconstructed alongside the Nanden and other structures, also served sometimes as a waiting room or reception room for Chinese investiture envoys.<ref>Gallery labels, Okinawa Prefectural Museum, August 2013.</ref>

A pair of buildings to the south of the Nanden, on the opposite side of that hall from the central plaza, served as administrative buildings and spaces for meeting with and entertaining Chinese investiture envoys and officials from Satsuma. The ''shoin'' or "study", and ''kusari-no-ma'', as they would have been called in Japanese, were also used by the kings and royal princes, respectively, as their chief study or office.<ref>"Shisetsu annai: shoin / kusari no ma." Shuri Castle Park Official Website.; plaques on-site in Shuri castle.</ref><ref name=coral2020>「よみがえれ、首里城」、''Coralway'', Nov/Dec 2020, 16.</ref>. The room was also used for entertaining Chinese envoys. The ''shoin'' appears in the [[1713]] ''[[Ryukyu-koku yuraiki|Ryûkyû-koku yuraiki]]'', but it is unclear how much earlier before that it might have been built. Connected to the Nanden by internal corridors, it contained the ''sasu-no-ma'', the office of the royal scribe or clerk (''[[yuhitsu|yûhitsu]]''<!--右筆-->), who was responsible for producing formal court documents, including those sent to the Emperor of China or the Japanese shogun. The ''sasu-no-ma'' was also used by the Crown Prince as a tearoom for receiving guests. The ''shoin'', which has today been reconstructed alongside the Nanden and other structures, also served sometimes as a waiting room or reception room for Chinese investiture envoys.<ref>Gallery labels, Okinawa Prefectural Museum, August 2013.</ref>

====Seiden====

====Seiden====