contributor
27,041
edits
Changes
no edit summary
*''Other Names'': 苧麻 ''(karamushi)''
*''Other Names'': 苧麻 ''(karamushi, chôma)''
*''Japanese'': [[宮古]] 上布 ''(Miyako joufu)''
*''Japanese'': [[宮古]] 上布 ''(Miyako joufu)''
Jôfu is said to be "prized for its strength, high luster, remarkable resistance to bacteria and mildew, [for being] absorben[t] yet quick-drying ..., and [for its] affinity to dyes."<ref>''Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion''. p419.</ref> With its name meaning literally "high [quality] cloth," ramie was worn chiefly by members of the royalty and the aristocracy. It was also among the chief forms of [[tribute]] goods sent to China and Japan, and an accepted form of tax payment collected by the [[Ryukyu Kingdom|Ryûkyû Kingdom]] from Miyako and Yaeyama. Its production was strictly managed by the royal government, and designs were generally derived from one particular traditional book of designs, known as the ''Miezu-chô''.<ref>Satoshi Tsuhako, "Arts and Crafts of Okinawa," ''Bingata! Only in Okinawa'', Okinawa Prefectural Government (2016), 26.</ref>
Jôfu is said to be "prized for its strength, high luster, remarkable resistance to bacteria and mildew, [for being] absorben[t] yet quick-drying ..., and [for its] affinity to dyes."<ref>''Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion''. p419.</ref> With its name meaning literally "high [quality] cloth," ramie was worn chiefly by members of the royalty and the aristocracy. It was also among the chief forms of [[tribute]] goods sent to China and Japan, and an accepted form of tax payment collected by the [[Ryukyu Kingdom|Ryûkyû Kingdom]] from Miyako and Yaeyama. Its production was strictly managed by the royal government, and designs were generally derived from one particular traditional book of designs, known as the ''Miezu-chô''.<ref>Satoshi Tsuhako, "Arts and Crafts of Okinawa," ''Bingata! Only in Okinawa'', Okinawa Prefectural Government (2016), 26.</ref>
It is made from the fibers of a plant known as ''karamushi'' or ''chôma'', which are then spun into thread. While the finest, thinnest fibers were used to make ''jôfu'' ("superior fabric"), rougher fibers were also traditionally used to make materials known as ''chôfu'' ("middle[-quality] fabric") and ''gefu'' ("lesser" or "lower[-quality] fabric"). A light fabric, ''jôfu'' was particularly good for summer clothing.<ref>Gallery labels, "Churashima Textiles" exhibition, Shoto Museum, Tokyo, Sept 2019.</ref>
The earliest extant documentary reference to Miyako-jôfu comes from a [[1583]] record of King [[Sho Ei|Shô Ei]] of Ryûkyû receiving a gift or tribute payment of the fabric.
The earliest extant documentary reference to Miyako-jôfu comes from a [[1583]] record of King [[Sho Ei|Shô Ei]] of Ryûkyû receiving a gift or tribute payment of the fabric.